(apologies to Rodgers and Hammerstein here)

"ROSH Ha-shana, when the year gets handed down from on High..." Wow, this century is just speeding by. Time to get ready for Y6K problems NOW, I guess!

As with all of our holy-days, there are food customs and foods associated with this one, and this time even more important ones on an important anniversary of this kind—the Birthday of Humanity. These customs are referred to as "simanim" or "omens."  Well, ok, literally "signs." We eat apple slices dipped in fragrant honey to hope for a sweet year, we munch carrot coins (a pun on the Yiddish "mehren") to increase our prosperity, and we dine on tart'n'tangy pomegranate seeds to remind us of the many good deeds we need to accomplish during the year. There are food items that solicit the tearing, the destruction, and consume/disintegration of our enemies (gourds, leeks, and dates). I much prefer to contemplate the lowly and humble beet (the Aramaic "silka", to remove) with the least-force-necessary plea to "remove our enemies" which I interpret to mean "to set aside, to minimize their impact."

These aren't silly superstitions, though, which are forbidden. The difference is we don't do these things to somehow force an effect, to impose our own intervention on Divine Will, we do them to remind ourselves of what we need to maintain our integrity, our wholeness, as individuals and as a People.

Another food tradition is to eat fish heads. Ick, ick, ick, (and I don't mean the Greek word for fish, "icthy"). But "Rosh" does mean "head," as in "the head of the year," and it reminds us to look forward and not back. As in the famous saying from Dr. Fritz Perls, "That Was Then and This Is Now."

Well. So. I don't expect the readers here to jump out and clamor their butchers for fish heads (unless you-all are thinking of making a pot of fish stock), but let's do a stand-in sort of thing and think about the rest and best of the beasties; the various kinds of our finny friends that are allowed and different preparation methods involved.

We're first going to start with author/member Norene Gilletz' easy-sneezy Chopped Herring appetizer from her book, "The Food Processor Bible." Takes about 2 minutes, tops, and doubles or triples as necessary. She gives some lower-fat options, as well as the long version of how to produce this break-the-fast favorite. I include her reminiscence that shows us how food traditions ties us to family traditions, generation to generation.

Marcia Goldberg reminds us that on occasion the weather can be hot, stifling and stagnant and inventive cooks need to do something revive flagging appetites and spirits. This version of Tuna Tostadas would be on the menu. As well as getting some vital omega-three fatty acids (good for heart health), this can be a way to get the kids who think "vegetable" rhymes with "forgettable" a balanced meal. Vary the toppings with avocado slices, radishes, green onion brushes, alfalfa sprouts, red onion rings. Whatever is bright and colorful and as Marcia suggests, set out the ingredients for the folks to mix'n'match! Children always go for the satisfaction of I-made-it-my-very-self.

What would a festive family brunch be without lox and bagels? Foodie Fredericka Cohen shares this innovative twist on these trad foods. This casserole is a "strata" (or "layered" in Italian) and was part of the easy-entertaining movement of the post-WWII years. "Spend time with your guests instead of in the kitchen" was the mantra recited by the proto-California Cuisine cooks. This tasty treat certainly fits the definition of a hostess' helper. Assemble the night before, and just slip into the oven and bake and then present to the oohs and ahhhhs of your appreciative guests.

And on to the recipes. I wish all of you a healthy, hopeful, and safe New Year.

Herring, Chopped (P, TNT)
Source: "The Food Processor Bible," by Norene Gilletz
Yield: About 2 cups
1 6-oz. jar marinated herring fillets
1 apple, cored and cut in chunks (peel if desired)
1 slice challah or rye bread
2 hard-cooked eggs, halved (or 3 hard-cooked whites)
1 tsp. sugar (you can substitute Splenda)

Empty contents of herring jar into colander. Discard any pickling spices. Rinse herring and onions very well under cold running water.

Steel Blade: Process apple until minced, about 10 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl. Moisten bread with a little water and squeeze out excess. Add bread, herring and onions to processor bowl. Process until coarsely chopped, about 8 seconds. Add eggs and sugar and process 6 to 8 seconds longer, until finely chopped.

Refrigerate.

Keeps about 10 days to 2 weeks. Do not freeze.

My Mother's Version: Instead of a jar of marinated herring, substitute 1 salt herring, filleted, skinned and soaked overnight in 2 changes of water. Chop on the food processor with 1 small onion and 1 apple, peeled and cored. Add 1 thick slice challah or rye, 1 tbsp. vinegar, 1 tsp.  oil, and 1 tsp. sugar. Process with on/off turns, until combined.

Poster's Notes:
My mother makes her chopped herring with a whole salted herring that she splits down the middle. She fillets it, peels it, then soaks the fillets overnight in cold water. Change the water at least once.

Here is my shortcut recipe, but it's pretty close. My hands get swollen when I try to fillet herring, so I use this version. (My mother sighs and offers to fillet herrings for me to take by plane to Toronto!)

One of my best food memories is my late Baba Masha hacking the herring with the other ingredients in her big wooden bowl after grinding all the ingredients in her ‘milchel' (grinder). Her chopped herring was the best!!! I'll settle for this version, since she isn't here to make it for me and it's hard to travel to Winnipeg just because I have a craving for my mother's food!

Posted by Norene Gilletz
Nutritional Info Per Serving: About 17 calories per tbsp.

Tuna Taco Salad (Panchos) (D, TNT)
Source: My mother, Sylvia Segall
Serves: 1-2

Bottom Layer:
Taco chips
Can of tuna, drained
Grated cheese

Topping:
Shredded lettuce
Diced tomatoes
Diced onions
Taco sauce or salsa, any strength

On a dinner plate arrange taco chips in a single layer. Sprinkle drained tuna from a can (preferably packed in water) over chips.

Then sprinkle grated cheese (your choice) or cheese strips over all but it needn't cover completely. Put in the microwave and heat until cheese melts. Your family or guests can add the toppings as they wish.

Poster's Notes:
This is eaten with fork and fingers. It is a quick and easy meal.  Especially good in the hot days of summer and during the Nine Days of only dairy. My kids adore this.

Posted by Marcia Goldberg
Nutritional Info Per Serving: N/A

Casserole, Bagel and Lox (Strata) (D, TNT)
Source: Served at a brunch
Serves: 12

¼ cup butter or margarine, melted
8 cups plain bagels cut into bite size pieces (4 to 6 bagel) 1 8-oz. package thinly sliced lox cut into small pieces (be smart! buy the less expensive containers of bits and pieces!)
8 oz. Swiss cheese or Monterey Jack or combo (2 cups)
¼ snipped fresh chives
8 beaten eggs
2 cups milk
1 cup cottage cheese
¼ tsp. pepper

Spread melted butter evenly over bottom of 3-quart rectangular baking dish.

Evenly spread bagels pieces in dish. Sprinkle lox, cheese, and chives evenly over bagel.

Combine eggs, milk, cottage cheese, and pepper in bowl and then pour over layers in dish.

With a wooden spoon, press down ingredients gently to moisten all of the ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours.

Bake uncovered in a preheated 350 F oven for about 45 minutes or until set and edges are puffed and golden. Let stand about 10 minutes before serving.

Poster's Notes:
I was a guest at a recent brunch where this was a tremendous success.  Because it can be prepared ahead of time AND can be served in its cooking pan, it is a hostess' delight!

There is no salt specified because the lox may be salty enough. I would use butter. If you are going to use all those other great dairy products, using margarine doesn't make too much sense!

Posted by Fredericka Cohen
Nutritional Info Per Serving: N/A

For these and other recipes, go to The Jewish Food Mailing List Archive.

For more information about the Jewish Food Mailing list, or questions about the recipes in these columns, e-mail jewishfood-list@ujc.org.